My aim with this blog is to become more well-versed in weather and wave terminology and for that I’m inviting any and all communication with the more well-versed. As well, I’d like to provide detailed information in English about our area – since surfing is HUGE in Japan, there are tons of really good Japanese language blogs on the subject. We used to have a real guru living here, and he gave me a ton of good (life-saving at times) advice, but he moved back to NZ with his family.
It’s been an unseasonably large swell lately, mostly related to that typhoon system that hit Southern Japan in the last few weeks. Seems like things are back to pretty much normal August conditions.
Lately, I’ve been trying to get used to Seichan Beach because it was more exposed to the southern swell that we were receiving, but when things got too intense there (i.e. can’t get outside for the life of you because of a big board and an impenetrable wall of foam) I switched back to Hakashita, which is more sheltered by Hirai, the harbor and the big tetrapod jetty. Had a couple of epic days there that made it seem like February. Nice offshore winds, regular sets just piling in non-stop.
I’m going to try and post something in Japanese now – my beautiful wife will likely edit and make fun of my terrible diction, but what the hell, this blog is about learning.
皆さんへ
こんにちは!このブログは私が初めて作成するサーフィンについてのブログです。僕の文書を読めば「初心者だ」と思うと思います。正解ですよ。僕は茨城県鹿嶋市に三年間サーフィンをしていたが最近よく出来るようになっています。9フットボードで始めましたけど、今年7フットのボードに変えて乗っています。
僕の目的はサーフィンと天気の用語を習って、この場所の波・天気のコンディションを案内して、サーフィンの先輩に会って話したいです。コメントを頂ければ、うれしいです。
最近鹿嶋の小宮作のセイチャン海岸で乗っていましたが、台風の海流は時々荒すぎたので、その代わりに平井の墓下海岸へ乗りに行きました。セイチャン海岸はタトラポッドが少ないので、波が荒いが墓下海岸は多くのテトラポッドがあるため、波は落ちついています。墓下では最近の海流はと風流もがよかたから、コンディションは最高でした。
日本語でも作文を書きますが、日本語でも初心者ので妻は作文についていじめて正しますが、このブログの目的は習うですね。
よろしくお願いします。
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