Saturday, August 13, 2011

Hakashitanatomy

This is the beach I surf at most often. It's the place I learned, and IMHO the best all-round spot in the area. It has areas that are good for longboarders, good for beginners, and there are some spots up in the middle that are more suited to shortboarders. It's often crowded, but it's also big enough so that you can paddle far enough to eke out your own territory.

ここは僕が一番よく行っている海岸です。初めてサーフィンを習った場所だし、どんなサーファーにも乗りやすい場所です。ロングボードや初心者など使いやすいし、ショートボーダーにも乗りやすい場所があります。

From time to time the sandy bottom will shift, and the break will change - but since beach break is what we're used to we adapt.

時々海の底の形は変わっていますが、波も変わっています。でも、ビーチブレイクには慣れているので、僕たちはそれに適応することができる。

First, let's introduce you to the jetty, or the "chairlift", as I like to call it. On most days, but moreso on an North/East/Northeast swell day, the waves will come in and form this rip current that will just pull you out to the waves.

まずは、テトラポッドを見て下さい。僕はこれを「チェアリフト」と呼びます(笑)。※スキー場のリフト
普通に波が来たら、リップはサーファを波へ引きます。


Word of warning for the uninitiated - this current isn't the strongest, but it's still a current and it isn't about to stop for anyone. If you find yourself caught in it, turn left and paddle out of it - it's only about 3-4 meters wide at its biggest. I didn't know this and was almost pulled out to sea one evening. Sun was going down, I was getting tired paddling against the stupid thing. . . ah newbie memories.

注意ですがこの海流はあまり強くないけども海流ですから、全然止まらないです。困った状況になったら、左に回って海流から出てください。海流の広さは3-4メートルだから、出やすいです。初心者の時に僕はこのことを知らなかったから、ほとんど海の中へ引っ張られてしまいました。

Nice little summer thigh-high waves:
穏やかでいい夏の波だ!


And here it is in late March, post-typhoon, breaking pretty much at the end of the jetty:
今年の三月の下旬です。台風の後でテトラポッドの一番遠いところで波がブレイクをしています。


This is the entrance to the beach. Be respectful to the graveyard and the local residents, do your best to follow official (and deemed-as-official by local residents) parking regulations and for pete's sake take your garbage with you.

海岸の入口です。この墓と近所の人に敬意を払って、車を止める時にルールを守って、ゴミは必ず持って帰ってくださいね。


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